Most of the birders who come to Peru want to observe the exotic birds that live in the Andes or the rainforests of the Amazon. Those images of colorful birds and lush humid forests are dashed when birders land in Lima for the first time. Instead they found themselves in the middle of one of the driest deserts in the world. But even here, at the border of the Atacama desert, you can found specialized avifauna that have adapted to survive in these harsh conditions. The Lomas de Lachay National Reserve is just 100 kilometers north of the city of Lima. Here, the special climatic conditions and heavy coastal fogs have led to the formation of a seasonal oasis that flourishes every winter (July to October). Air humidity is so high in the Lomas de Lachay that small patches of forest grow just a few kilometers from the desert. This area is full of endemics and interesting birds to observe.

At the Reserve’s entrance, in the transition zone between the desert and the oasis, one of the first birds to appear is the endemic Coastal Miner that runs very fast over the sand, digging small holes underground. Further along the road, where low vegetation starts to flourish is the best area to look out for the handsome Least Seedsnipe that often hangs around the road in small flocks. Also, keep an eye open for the Burrowing Owl that is extremely common here, but blends in very well with the landscape. If you come during the austral winter you have good chance of seeing the display flights of Yellowish Pipit one kilometer before the reserve control post. But be prepared for a brief sighting, this small bird is very hard to spot when it lands in the vegetation.

Coastal Miner | © Jean Paul Perret

Least Seedsnipe (male) | © Jean Paul Perret

Burrowing Owl | © Jean Paul Perret

Yellowish Pipit | © Jean Paul Perret

Vegetation begins to become more dense at the control post, with thick bushes and even some introduced Eucaliptus trees that are the favorite spot for the Black-chested Buzzard-Eagles and Variable Hawks. Be sure to pay attention to the differences in juvenile plumages in these raptors. From here the car road descends into a valley, ending in a parking area next to a cafeteria.

Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle | © Jean Paul Perret

There is a well maintained trail system that traverses most of the reserve, but many of the target birds can be seen in a small loop trail that takes just a couple of hours to follow. Starting at the cafeteria take the trail that goes to the right through a gentle slope. In this area Cinereous Conebill, Band-tailed Seedeater and Collared Warbling-Finch are very common. Before reaching the higher part of this small hill closely examine the trees at the bend of the trail, they are usually full of Mountain Parakeets. This area is also the best place to see hummingbirds. The Peruvian Sheartail, Purple-collared Woodstar and Oasis Hummingbird love the Nicotiana flowers that grow here.

Collared Warbling-Finch (male) | © Jean Paul Perret

The trail now splits in two. The path that goes to the right descends into a small valley with a water hole that is the only water source throughout the reserve. It is a nice respite to sit a few meters from the water hole. Just wait a few minutes, and then the action begins. Band-tailed Sierra-Finch, Bare-faced Ground-Dove, Hooded Siskin and many other bird species came here to drink. This is especially true during the dry season from December to May. The austral summer is also the best time to see the nomadic endemic Raimondi’s Yellowfinch who visits this water hole in flocks that can reach more than one hundred birds.

Raimondi’s Yellowfinch | © Jean Paul Perret

Continuing along the trail, I usually take the first detour to the left that goes back to the parking area. Along this stretch of the trail, among the big rock boulders is the territory of the endemic Thick-billed Miner.

Thick-billed Miner | © Jean Paul Perret

Perhaps one of the best birds in Lachay is the Cactus Canastero, here the lachayensis race lives in a small drier valley behind the reserve. However, getting there is another story since this area is closed to tourists and can only be accessed if you ask for a permit.

Cactus Canastero | © Jean Paul Perret

If you want to visit Lomas de Lachay on your next trip to Peru send us an email, we are happy to provide you with directions, birding guides, transportation or whatever you need!